Spork #23: Serbian National Cycling Champion

We crossed into Montenegro and finally found somewhere to camp in a quiet village on the Bay of Kotor. After a quick swim, we were settling down to eat dinner when a couple approached us out of the darkness.

A few minutes into the conversation, the man revealed that he happened to be a previous national cycling champion in Serbia, and that he subsequently provided bicycle maintenance support for the national cycling team. Our bikes have been great, but it was definitely time to have them serviced (a job we never get round to), so this was perfect timing.

He offered to have a look at our bikes, so the morning after we wheeled round to their house at the back of the village. Thankfully, he was impressed with their good condition after 3,000km, and only needed to make a few adjustments to ensure they were running smoothly again. As well as the free bike service, it was lovely to spend a morning chatting with Vlad and Natasha, learning more about what life is like in Serbia.

(We should also add that just as we were leaving, their neighbours appeared with a big bag of satsumas and grapes for us. This would usually merit a Spork, in our aim of giving one to everyone who helps us on our round the world cycle, but in the rush we forgot. Sorry and thank you to these kind strangers!)

Spork #22: Marko's Flea Market

Most nights, we camp in our tent wherever we can find space. We love the feeling of independence, being able to set up a familiar home within a few minutes at getting off our bicycles. It also means we can stop wherever and whenever we want to, without the pressure to make it to the next town.

However, for a few days in Croatia, the weather was very wet. For several nights in a row, we were battered by huge thunderstorms and everything got soaked through. For a respite from the rain, we used the website 'Warm Showers' to find local people who would be willing to host a couple of wet cycle tourists for a night.

Marko was our saviour on the border between Croatia and Montenegro. Having left Croatia under Tito's rule, he has now returned to his homeland after spending most of his adult life in Canada. Aged 78, he is choosing not to retire peacefully, but instead is trying to regenerate the local tourist industry, raising funds to redevelop the narrow gauge railway near Dubrovnik.

If you are interested, he would love to hear from you, and you can find his website at http://www.dubrovnikbytrain.com.

Spork #21: Onboard a Saga cruise ship

What do you imagine when you hear about cruise holidays for older people? Hand rails and stair lifts everywhere, lots of grey haired people talking about the past, meals with no texture so the old people can manage it without their teeth?

We recently had these preconceptions challenged, being invited on board the Saga Sapphire cruise ship when it was visiting the island of Hvar in Croatia. Tim's grandfather and his partner Pat are regulars on these holidays, which are aimed at those aged over 50, and their latest adventure happened to intersect with our cycle trip around the world.

We turned up to the port, not really knowing what to expect, or even if we would be allowed on board. After some confusion, we realised our names were already on the list as official visitors, so were taken on the tender boat to the main ship, across the harbour.

On arrival, we were pleasantly surprised. Sure, there were some people with walking sticks and grey hair, but there were also plenty of younger people, in their fifties, joining in with the dancing lessons and darts tournaments. There was a gym, a spa, a swimming pool, a library, a help-yourself ice cream bar...in fact we could have happily stayed for a week. It was not at all what we expected.

The highlight was lunch, which Grandpa John and Pat kindly arranged for us to have in one of the ship's many restaurants. After weeks of pasta, we were treated to a very British lunch of roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, followed by crumble and custard. It was proper food, in a venue which felt more like a London bar than a ship for older people.

As with everyone who has helped us on our journey, Grandpa John and Pat each received a spork, in appreciation of the arrangements they made to get us on board. Thanks to you both, and see you when we finally return to the UK sometime in 2014!

Spork #20: Paradise on the Adriatic

"Do you think we could pitch a tent on your beach?"

"No" came the response. "I think you should sleep downstairs".

We encountered another random act of kindness in Croatia when we were looking for a place to sleep on a beautiful stretch of coastline between Sibenik and Split. We had fallen in love with the turquoise waters and sun bleached rocks of Dolac, having spent a lovely afternoon swimming and reading in the shade of pine trees, so decided to quit cycling for the day and spend the night there.

As it was a small area with houses close by, we wanted to ask permission before pitching our tent. We treated ourselves to a beer at the 'Boxer' bar in Dolac, and mentioned our plans to the owner, who instantly offered us the room where his employees usually sleep. As the season was ending, the room was empty so we could use it to escape from the wind for a night and enjoy the rare treats of electricity and running water. Fresh coffee in the morning was the icing on the cake, as we chatted to the owner and his twin brother.

We would recommend this area, and this bar, to anyone passing through Croatia.

Spork #19: Uncle Niko and the figs

As we were cycling across the island of Pag in Croatia, a man who was picking figs at the side of the road flagged us down. He was curious about what we were doing, and when we explained (in broken German) that we are hoping to cycle to Australia, he laughed and squealed at the idea, instantly endearing him to us.

He insisted we try some of his fruit, saying they would be good for energy. As he kept peeling them and pressing them into our hands, he also claimed they would help our brains with maths problems...we're not sure how accurate that is, but they were by far the most delicious figs we've ever tasted. He gave us a bag to take with us, and with sticky fingers and warm hearts, we pedalled off into the wind.

A mile or so down the road we suddenly realised he was probably selling them: why else had he flagged us down? In a rush of guilt for leaving without paying, we wheeled around and rushed back up the road. Waving money at him, we were acutely embarrassed when he shook his head and explained they were a gift, from our new 'Uncle Niko'. It seems that sometimes people are just being nice, and this was an encounter we won't forget in a hurry.

Cycling through Croatia

Here is a short video showing some photos of our cycle down the Croatian coast. Enjoy!

Click on this link to see the video:

Cycling through Croatia

Sporks #17-18: Kraljevica

On our first couple of nights in Croatia, we were hosted by a couple who live just south of Rijeka.  Vedran is a keen climber and it was great to hear his stories of climbing in Croatia and Bolivia. Tatjana gave us lots of helpful advice about what to see in Croatia, and even washed our (very smelly!) cycling clothes.

As well as giving us a bed, wifi and a shower to use, they took us out for a pizza on our first night, and drove us to Rijeka in the morning so we could have a couple of vaccinations we still needed.  They were great hosts and we thank them for their kindness.

Spork #16: Venice

We recently had a rest day in Venice, staying at a campsite just outside town. It allowed our muscles the chance to recover - always welcome - and meant we could go and explore this fascinating city, where no bikes are allowed.

The other guests on the campsite were very friendly and interested in what we were doing. The night before we left, several people donated their leftover food to us, including rice, pasta, oil and vegetables. As they were flying out of Italy, they didn't want to carry it and knew that we would appreciate it, being on a tiny budget. One lady also gave us lots of shower gels and soaps - perhaps we didn't smell so good when we arrived?

When we departed, we left a Spork in the communal campsite kitchen, as a small gesture to express our thanks for the company and food that people had given us. It wasn't much, but it's all we had.

Campsite cooking #2: Tartiflettish

As we have to carry all our stove fuel with us, food which cooks quickly is very important when we are choosing what to eat in the evening.  We often use a peeler to prepare vegetables, as we can use it to slice them very thinly so they cook faster (this was a great idea from Laura`s mum).  We also prefer food which cooks in one pan.

When we were cycling across France, we invented this dish, which meets both those criteria.  It is not so good for people who are on a diet, but if you are doing a lot of exercise and need the calories it is perfect!  The quantities specified below are not exact, as it depends on how much you want to eat and how rich you want it to be.

Potatoes with bacon and cream (or, Tartiflettish)
For two hungry people:
3-4 large potatoes, sliced very thinly
3-4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
100g bacon (we use lardons or pancetta)
150ml cream
Handful of grated cheese, whatever is available but preferably French and smelly
Black pepper

Fry the bacon and garlic together over a low heat.  Put the lid on after a minute or two.  The bacon will release its fat so you shouldn`t need to add extra oil unless it looks like it is sticking.

Add the sliced potato and stir.  Put the lid on, and then after a minute or two add some water to the pan - maybe 200ml.  You will need to keep watching it and trying the potatoes until they are cooked, add more water if it looks like they are sticking to the pan.  If you add too much water, the potatoes will go gloopy as the starch comes out, so be cautious.

Once the potatoes are cooked (it took about 10 minutes for us), add the cream and cheese.  Stir together until the cheese is melted and season with black pepper.  You may not need salt, as the bacon will be salty - taste it and see.

Eat with green salad and bread, in front of a lake.

You could also add a finely sliced onion when you are frying the bacon and garlic, or add a stock cube for extra flavour (although this would also make it saltier).  You could also cut the potatoes into small cubes instead of slicing them.