måndag 9 december 2013

Spork #38: Food from Above

Our "Magic Letter" explains in the local language who we are, what we are doing and what we want from the poor people we have opted to interrupt that evening. We use it most nights but we don't usually hand it over to children.

They laughed a lot and the younger ones primarily ran in circles shouting "Hello!" before hiding behind a friend but, eventually, the older members managed to help us out by taking it in turns to run into a building and return with a filled bottle of water (I did offer to go with them and fill up our one big water bladder but it was either not appropriate or not communicated effectively).

They then tried to point us to a suitable camping spot. We wheeled off down the road and they continued to shout after us but they did so in unison, each shouting different things and pointing in several different directions. We pitched on a spot that seemed good to us but a shifty man appeared and tried to convince us (we think) that we should stay in his hotel by repeatedly pointing to our tent and acting out having his throat slit. Not reassured by this man or his miming, we picked the tent up and wheeled back up to our friendly young acquaintances.

Eventually we were led towards a large front yard and directed to pitch outside one of their houses. Our bikes were brought over by teams of two kids at a time and the re-pitching of our tent was assisted by many small hands, a little over enthusiastic with the rocks to bash in pegs. Again, food was brought out to us on trays (there was some kind of religious celebration happening that evening, hence the kids and their families were all gathered).

As we woke and prepared our breakfast, an old lady poked her head out of the window of the house above us and dropped a bag of bread down to us which was proceeded shortly by two chocolate muffins. A surreal but brilliant start to the day.

torsdag 5 december 2013

Sporks #36-37: Our friend, Suleyman

By now, you know how it works. We find somewhere to ask for water and we end up not only being given the water but also a place to camp and, in this instance, a tray of hot food for dinner.

This time it turned out to be an off-season hotel whose cafe and garden were currently populated by the owner's extended family. As we ate our tea we had the prying eyes of two wide-eyed and very cute granddaughters and the owner (the granddad) was keen to inspect each item of equipment that we removed from our bags: the tent and its elaborate pole system, our camping mats with their inflation bags, our gas stove, the Kindles and so on.

Amusingly, with the days that bit shorter now (it's dark a little after 5pm) and with our dinner handed to us on a platter, our evening routine was completed by 7pm and we found ourselves tucked up in the tent alarmingly early. No doubt this was the first of many such nights and we approach the depths of winter.

The following morning, the granddad sat down and began writing on a small piece of paper with some concenration. After ten minutes he handed us the slip with a telephone number and some words: "When you reach Australia, please call this number. Your friend, Suleyman."

måndag 2 december 2013

Spork #35: Tekirdag

We were hosted by Ben Ali in Tekirdag, a town on the European side of the Sea of Marmara. He is an English teacher with many interests: always out swimming or playing football.

We had some time to kill before we were due in Istanbul so he very kindly let us stay with him for three nights, cluttering up his front room and abusing his WiFi. He apologised for leaving us alone for so long when he was out at work or in the evening, but actually the rest and peace was just what we needed.

He offered us a great introduction to life in Turkey, taking us for Turkish coffee and cooking us a wonderful dinner of fish and salad. He also explained lots about Turkish culture to us, perfect timing as we began our cycle across this vast country.

We are giving sporks to all who help us on our cycle trip around the world. For more information about our trip, see www.thenextchallenge.org 

fredag 29 november 2013

Sporks #33-34: The Shell Garage


A petrol station.
Perhaps not the first place you'd anticipate generosity but, nonetheless, that is what we found.
Initially shown a patch of concrete on which we could safely pitch for the night - which was very welcome to us, our first night in a new country and with clouds setting in - we were almost forcibly sat in chairs and provided hot, sweet tea (for any budding hosts of cycle tourists out there - there are few better ways to to welcome a cyclist that a hot, sweet cup of tea).
Before I could finish my admittedly second cup of tea, the stern man that had shown us to our tent pitch dragged me around the corner and up some stairs to the roof of the building. He indicated that rain was coming then opened the door to a room with two beds. Bliss.
Showered and unpacked there was a knock at the door. In came one of our hosts bearing a tray with two bowls of steaming soup and a large bowl of bread. This was the icing on the cake and another top tip for the aspiring cycle tourist host.
Just as Panos (Spork #32) had told predicted, the Turkish are indeed "very hospitality".
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Tim and Laura are cycling across Europe and Asia to Australia. Follow their progress at www.thenextchallenge.org

måndag 25 november 2013

Spork #32: Chateau Grand


It was a big hill, no doubt about it. 550-metres doesn't sound that high but, on a 50kg bike, through the bowls of a city (Thessaloniki) and after five days of rest, 10 miles' cycling uphill feels tough.
We had assumed Chateau Grand was a hotel when we pedalled up the drive in search of water and a place to pitch the tent. But as Panos later explained after appearing on the balcony in response to our calls of "Calispera!", it is a wedding venue.
In fact, Panos gave the best possible response to the question: "Can we have some water?".
His reply: "Hot or cold?".
He then made us coffee and we spent the evening discussing his background, politics and the Greek economy with two of his friends.
Oh, and when we asked him what we should expect in Turkey, he replied simply: "Very hospitality. Turkish people, very hospitality".
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We are cycling 15,000 miles from England to Australia. Follow us at www.thenextchallenge.org

fredag 22 november 2013

Spork #31: He's My Brother

We had our first visitor from home in Thessaloniki: Tim's brother Robin.

He flew out for a long weekend in the city, the first familiar face since leaving England/France two and a half months ago.

We stayed in the spare room of a local's apartment (arranged through the Air B&B website) and set about being tourists for a few days:

Walking around the city, its many old churches and up to the old town for a view out to sea
Attending the military parade, heavily guarded by armed riot police
Taking a bus out to the beach
Watching entries into an international film festival (some excellent, many depressing, several just plain odd)
Looking at weird and wonderful creatures in Insectopia
Rob and Laura playing with their SLR cameras
Indulgently watching films in our room

Eventually, after five days, Rob walked to a bus stop as we reacquainted ourselves with our bikes. It was a brief goodbye but left me with a little sadness. I probably won't see him again for another year.

P.S. Rob, we forgot to actually give you your spork! Thankfully, there is a whole box full of them in the loft so please help yourself...


måndag 18 november 2013

Spork #30: God and Soup

A wonderful welcome to Greece was provided by the Orthodox church or at least by one of its members: Father Paeseus.
(N.B. I am sure that I have spelled his name incorrectly - sorry Father)
We stopped at a church to ask for some water and see if they thought it would be alright for us to camp outside.
We were soon treated to two large chocolate ice creams, invited to camp in the church garden and given a big slap-up meal in Father Paeseus' home.
He had been learning English in preparation for a trip to America and - with the aid of hand signals and, later in the evening, his English tutor - we learned about the Greek Orthodox church and how it's traditional for its members to abstain from meat, fish and diary products on Wednesdays and Fridays; its differences from Roman Catholic and similarities with Russian Orthodox; and about his grand plans for a huge monastery in the foothills behind his church.
The grilled fish he packed us off with lasted us through two huge lunches. No mean feat for two hungry cyclists.
You can read the full account of our encounter here: http://thenextchallenge.org/2013/11/night-orthodox-monk/
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Tim and Laura Moss are currently cycling around the world - www.thenextchallenge.org